Start: 4:12 a.m.
Finish: 9:30 p.m.
Stats: 46.17 miles, 7677 elevation gain, 15h49m moving time, 17h18 m elapsed time
Route: Pen Mar Road (drop off site) to Virginia state line (sign reads “Entering Harpers National Historic Park”) and then to Chestnut Hill Road (pick up site)
Method: Day hike with support
I wanted to hike the Four State Challenge for my fortieth birthday, because I wanted to hike more miles than I had years. For this challenge, in one day, one walks in or through four states on the Appalachian Trail: Pennsylvania, Maryland, West Virginia, and Virginia.
For the challenge, I awoke at 2:20 a.m., drove an hour in the car, and began my voyage at 4:12 a.m. J served as my trusty co-hiker and my partner Matt joined the fun as our support person.
As our headlamps cut through the dark, Matt, J and I walked together to the Pennsylvania – Maryland border.
There, Matt bid J and I farewell as we ventured into the night. Soon, in Pen-Mar Park, we hiked by lively men around a fire; as our day began, their night was ending.
As we entered Maryland, J and I quickly began rock hopping and scrambling, which made us laugh because Pennsylvania was supposed to be the rocky state!
Rocks continued to litter the terrain for much of our hike in Maryland. We enjoyed forest bathing as we sped through the magical Maryland woods.
We kept up a quick pace and looked forward to Matt’s four support stops which brought good food, new shoes, and good cheer! At miles 21.5, J, Matt, and I luxuriated in having a quick picnic lunch on a blanket at Washington Monument Park in the sun. Fun fact, Matt told us that on this park stood the site of the first Washington Monument, a precursor to the one in Washington, DC.
As special treat, we all enjoyed dinners from Kelley’s, a local vegan restaurant, via our cooler. Yum! I highly recommend Kelley’s. We made do by eating on small patch of grass in the middle of a parking lot.
After dinner, Matt hiked us in via the C & O Canal Towpath to Harpers Ferry.
In town, we hiked on a steep incline to the Chapel of St. Peter and Jefferson’s Rock. Matt turned back afterward to hike to the car.
Soon thereafter, J and I enjoyed the gorgeous bridge crossing over the Shenandoah River.
I thought of the initial lyrics of Country Road, written about Harpers Ferry: “Almost heaven, West Virginia / Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River.” Yes.
Suddenly, the chorus harmonized with my heart, “Take me home to the place where I belong.” It’s been a rough transition to home-making in Virginia, but yesterday I felt at home in my body, my life, the woods, the AT, and my relationships. On the bridge, I found place of belonging – temporary, or forever, I do not know.
After that, I began to bonk as we climbed in the dark up Chestnut Hill. I entered the pain cave on mile 42 as my body started to hurt. I took a deep breath, trusting joy was on the other side. After much searching, we found the elusive Virginia border!
Relieved, we headed back to Chestnut Hill Road, in pain and delight. Soon, Matt picked us and whisked us away. The best part of the hike awaited: showers, food, and bed.
The next morning, on my birthday, I visited the AT headquarters and spoke a familiar language with a community I love.
I have been in love with AT since I was a teenager, and it has been and will continue to be my home. I made it through the pain cave and found Joy, after all.
Happy rebirthday to me!
Joy of the Journey 